Day 2 Tirana to Pogradec
A 2-hour transfer took to the northern end of Lake Ohrid, one of the oldest lakes in the world, fed by springs through Limestone from the surrounding mountains. There waiting all lined up in the glinting sun were 13 bikes, saddles and pedals removed and awaiting their hosts to attach all sorts of pedals and saddles for the next 10 days.
‘We set off down the cyclepath’ smiled Dhimitri as we headed along a glorified pavement protected from the traffic by a crash barrier. As the lake was not river fed it was clear and full of fish in the shallows and our progress was enhanced by the croaking of frogs and gliding of dragonflies.
The abandoned railway from 1991 paralleled our route all the way, splitting to service a now long-gone factory covered in attractive graffiti as well as a man waving a dead trout at passing cars in the hope of a sale. On the far shore the residents of Northern Macedonia would be sunning themselves and so good were the views that Tito the Yugoslav dictator had set up his summer home here.
Entering Pogradec, it was clear that we were in tourist central, for the whole lake front was filled with umbrellas and Sunday tourists enjoying the sun. At 800 metres above sea level this was cooler than the seaside, the reason for its existence.
We lunched at the Millennium Hotel on the outdoor terrace. Salad, tzatziki, aubergines and bread it was delicious, after which were headed for the monastery at St Naum.
Situated in Northern Macedonia, passports were checked before entering the complex. I had expected a religious experience and so it proved, a small Orthodox church built in the 16th century having been destroyed after formation in the 11th. Inside the paintings were numerous and vivid. A guide explained that you could attend a service and come and go as you pleased. I tried to pay for a couple of postcards, but the bearded gentleman gave me 2 more and insisted that I paid nothing, what a fabulous thing.
Day 3 Pogradec to Korce
What a gorgeous view for breakfast as we snacked on yoghurt and honey and tried to find a croissant, not filled with chocolate (no luck there) Coffee urn drained we set off west with the lake to our right to head mostly south bound for Korçë
Passing by Pogradec on a new road, we joined the E86, an arterial road heading south and quickly started the main climb of the day that zig zagged up the hillside to reveal a high lakeside view and a pair of Hungarian Cycletourists taking a break armed with Surley bikes and Ortleib panniers. The drivers were pretty patient, with the lorries giving reasonable room. We regrouped at the top to descend passing strip fields and seemingly tens of petrol stations, most of which had diversified to cafes and maybe a hotel, though many were closed. The strip fields were explained by the communist past where land was divided, as a result no-one had a big farm, so the farming was a very small scale using tiny tractors or a horse and cart. The petrol stations like pharmacies were an attempt to make a living, though the issue of supply outstripping demand was clearly an issue.
Heading left we left most of the traffic behind, heading for Podgorie. The gradients were very gentle, the fields numerous and there were far distance views of hills all around. It almost felt like we were cycling in a caldera in this the flattest and most fertile part of Albania with a rich variety of crops, from wheat to sweetcorn, from fruit trees to vegetables.
Our morning coffee stop was a posh affair, looking like a house we sat in the front garden drinking coffee and eating local green gauges, it was a shame to move on.
Multiple settlements along the road, some houses very posh with immaculate gardens, gated and the inevitable Mercedes, the majority in a state of disrepair with missing terracotta roof tiles and broken walls. This area is showing depopulation as is much of Albania and it was starting to show.
The views remained extensive as we grouped again by a massive quarry at Burimas where the hillside was being gradually removed. From here we joined the SH3 for our final ride to Korçë. The road was faster, with the 50kmh limit, clearly ignored, but there was a wide shoulder and the occasional donkey brightened up the view.
5km from the end, lunch at a roadside café was a treat. Salads, toasted cheese, fritters, bread and lamb chops were beautifully cooked.
Into Korçë, the eighth most populous town in Albania, along a delightful green boulevard with a cycle track and into the Bocca Hotel for the night.
Dhimitri grew up here, so we took a tour of the town. The Mirahori Mosque had survived the communists as there were keen on heritage, built in the 16th century it survives today. The Katedralja Ortodokse cathedral was a little more modern and dominated the square. We had a drink in the old bizarre, had an evening meal and walked in the early evening accompanied by hundreds of families with children playing football and riding bikes oblivious to the bars and Euro 2024 on at all the bars where Belgium suffered a loss to Slovakia.
Day 4 Korce to Sotira
Breakfast overlooking the cathedral to leave Korcę, heading south along a flat road surrounded by more strip agriculture. I’d street viewed the route in the UK and spotted Kamenica Tumulus, a burial ground containing at least 420 people from prehistoric times. A small museum displayed a skeleton and several information boards. Amazingly you could touch everything, and the place was deserted. Then a lady turned up and she was great, talked us through in Albanian whilst Dhimitri translated. 420 skeletons, lady with full term foetus, chief was 2 metres 10cm. He was in the centre of a circle with 13 others arranged around and half had been left for the future when techniques were better. With a final flourish, she gave us flowers and encouraged us to pick the cherries from the trees (delicious)
After 5km the road steepened as we laboured in the sun along a new road to a highpoint where they were just finishing it. Onto the old road that was a delight descending along a rougher road with spring flowers and pretty views.
Morning coffee and more cherries before a steady and gentle climb onto another road with expansive views before entering Albanias highest town at Ersekë. Lunch of bean soup, bread and a melange of spinach, tomatoes and rice after which we set of to find the museum. In all his trips, our guide had never been there before, so for 200 Lek per person (2 euros) we entered to be entertained by the lady on duty who was absolutely delighted that someone had visited, let alone a cycling group as none had come before. Numerous display cabinets were talked about whilst Dhimitri translated (more quickly) What I didn’t realise was just how much the Albanian had fought to their identity having had schools burnt by the Greeks, other countries trying to invade and the Germans in WW2 shoot villagers as a lesson not to harbour partisans. From 1912 when Albania was created, it seemed they had fought tooth and nail to keep it. I took a couple of pictures to which I was told ‘no pictures’ but this didn’t stop the lady lining us up not once but twice to do the same. ‘My museum’ she smiled with a glint in her eye.
The last third of the day was the hardest. Two big climbs, but the views remained, and the gradients were very steady, the last through trees. We were though treated to super fresh tarmac, so fresh that we had to detour via the countryside to get around the tarmac layer.
We finished at a Farm with cabins, restaurant and the inevitable Euro 2024. Lots of young animals about, all the rest seemed to be on the menu, including the chickens and trout in the ponds.
Day 5 Sotira to Benje
The circle of life in action for rather than cats begging for scraps from the breakfast table it was the big chicken who was patrolling the passageway between tables as we munched through fried eggs, bread and cheese for breakfast. Nothing was wasted especially as David was lobbing bread into the fishpond to feed the trout from whom we had eaten last night.
Out and up, we went for a 2km climb to a mountain meadow plateau, meadows surrounded by low hills where the fresh tarmac ran like a ribbon of loveliness flowed.
The morning would be dominated by downhill and great views with mountain scenery on the right-hand side, however it was interrupted by a morning café stop in Leskovik. One thing Albania does not suffer from, it’s a lack of cafes, seemingly every settlement has something with a large red umbrella opened outside it, and here there was no lack of choice and it was a good one, because like dominos, one by one we discovered that for 50 Lec (0.5 Euro) you could buy a boule of ice cream, so who was I to disappoint as 5 dropped into a sundae glass.
The descent continued, far reaching views on the right, then that ‘oh my goodness moment’ as we rounded a bend and there was an amazing view from left to right followed by a fast descent to the river below.
The river Aoos is one of the last untamed rivers in Europe. Attempts have been made to dam it, met with local reaction, so for now its blue melt waters wind their way through the mountainous scenery and we would follow this for the next day. Crossing it were
Quite a few suspension bridges in various states of repair from complete to a Go ape scenario.
We stopped at Carcove for lunch, and it was starting to heat up and would in fact hit 41 degrees. We sat on the veranda of a bar eating a roll and bananas washed down with water and a few tins of juice before starting the last part of the day.
We were still riding parallel to the river, the trouble was that the road rose with 2 passes, each with 100 metres of ascent. Fortunately, the gradients were gently as the Albanians make good use of switchbacks. To our left rose the magnificent Maja Çukës, at 1555metres its range dominated the view. The first viewpoint on the first climb was good. The second at the insignificant pull in was better with a village and the river Aoos snaking about at its foot. It was at this point that a couple of us sensibly called it a day and caught the back-up van. For the rest, we tackled the last and lower climb, before heading right and into the shade at Guest House Coli.
At 17:00 Dhimitri asked if anyone wanted to cycle the 4km to the thermal pools. Now the thought of sitting in 24 degrees heat in record temperatures wasn’t appealing, but bless him, Andrew was keen, which snowballed to 3 of us making the trip up the valley. The reward was a fabulous 16th century Ottoman bridge and a large thermal pool that you could swim across and was full of happy Albanians.
We finished the evening discussing raki with the owner, who made 400 litres a year and yes it was the best in Albania.
Day 6 Benje to Gjirokaster
The wind from the Sahara was going to make things hot, hot, hot, so a plan was hatched to try to mitigate this. Very kindly the family run guesthouse agreed to breakfast at 07:30, so we tucked into fried eggs, bread, tomatoes and cucumbers looking to set off at 08:00. It was definitely cooler with the added advantage that the wildlife were out, or in our case a tortoise stuck in the gutter. Suitably excited as Sharon pictured him from all angles before I returned him to the fields.
Back on the main road we followed the river downstream which meant pretty easy cycling as we cruised along at about 22km/h. The route deviated through Permet with its 2 large partisan memorials after which we continued to cruise with the river on our left. Our coffee stop was a pretty stop because a coach party were picturing the gorge from the bridge, the first tourists we had seen in this number for some time.
Coke, coffee and bananas munched we continued. One thing I was learning was the behaviour of Albanian drivers, usually courteous they would wait patiently for a suitable place. There were though a small number that would pass close and although they gave room you had to be careful. If a vehicle was coming towards you, I took care to ensure that I wasn’t sandwiched.
The road did get a little narrower and crash barrier appeared both sides but with care it felt safe enough.
We left the river behind heading left towards a main road to Gjirokaster which we joined 2km short of the lunch stop.
It was hotter now, the road was busier and even though it had a shoulder the 3 of us at the back decided it was better to have a relaxing lunch and take the back up the final 25km. After a salty tomato salad, we clambered into air-conditioned joy for the final part.
The others who were in front had stuck together in 2 groups and had chain ganged to the climb into Gjirokaster.
Things always look worse from the bus but the final climb to the city did look a touch steep, so we smiled apologetically when we passed Angela, Colin and Andrew taking a drink and a breather in a bar halfway up.
Our reward was to watch our driver somehow get the van and trailer into an underground car park with hundreds of pillars and to carry all the luggage to reception at the brilliantly placed Hotel Cajupu, a favourite in the communist era.
Everyone accounted for and a heat haze over the mountains we either gently explored the town or ate our body weight in ice cream at the air conditioned cafe in the square.
We finished the day at a restaurant with a view over the surrounding valley
Day 7 Gjirokaster
If ever a rest day was planned, this was a good day in a great place.
Dhimitri met us at 09:00 for a city tour , starting at the castle dominating the town. The usual story of a castle being built, undergoing many changes etc, but this one had been used as a prison during the communist era as well as the centre for a trophy collection consisting of a tiny Fiat tank, an American plane confiscated in 1956 that was falling apart but most striking about 14 artillery guns from the great wars whom the communists had lined up in the interior.
Gjirokaster features many old buildings, so our second and final call was to explore the traditional house. Built about 200 years ago it had 3 floors, a lower for the animals, a middle winter place with small, double-glazed windows and a top very airy summer residence. Over 40 family members lived here in 27 rooms complete with decorated fireplaces, small, stained cupboards to store the bedding and an ingenious cistern where rainwater collected. This needed repainting every 6 months and had an outside tap for servants but 1 metre higher than the inside so that water shortages affected the family last.
The final room was opulent, decorated pine ceilings, painted fireplace and stained-glass windows.
Back at the hotel we separated for the day each plotting our afternoons.
It was hot again but with a deal of effort, Sharon and I crawled up the cobbled high street full of cafes and souvenir shops (keep looking straight) over the brow and we were suddenly alone in search of another traditional house.
With a steam of misted water filling the entrance we found it. With 350 lec we entered and we were all alone. This one was better, higher with 4 stories, a little more opulent and we were allowed to take pictures in the summer best room where family ceremonies would have taken place.
All that was left was to reward the owner with a reasonably priced drink at his bar with panoramic views.
Back at the hotel, we cooled down with an ice cream followed by a visit to the tunnels. Built in secret and taking 19 years our enthusiastic guide took us through multiple rooms and locking doors to explore this underground maze with multiple entrances to whisk 200 of the party including the mayor for 3 months of isolation should a nuclear attack occur. Unfortunately, the place had been left open for many years after the fall of communism in 1992, so nearly everything was missing, even one of the enormous generators.
We finished the day at a restaurant under the shade of a large tree munching salad.
Day 8 Gjirokaster to Saranda
We transferred to the top of the Muzina Pass after which we descended to a crystal-clear canal that ran to our right. We joined up with another cycling group t our morning coffee stop as we sat outside and enjoyed the sunshine. Circumnavigating Bufi Lakes took us to towards Butrint. First though we passed the memorial to 2900 Albanians who were lost in 1944-45, all their names on a wall really brought this home.
Butrint greeted us by a ferry ride over the water before leaving the bikes and proceeding into this World Heritage site. Inhabited since prehistoric times, Butrint has been the site of a Greek colony, a Roman city and a bishopric. Following a period of prosperity under Byzantine administration, then a brief occupation by the Venetians, the city was abandoned in the late Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area. Amphitheatres, churches and stonework littered the site. In lower places the rising sea levels and sinking site meant that several areas were underwater.
Day 9 Saranda to Himare
Up the steep drive and left into the Sunday traffic along this seaside resort. Heading right, it was quite a climb out of the resort as we headed into the countryside beyond a mass of hotels.
The distant hills were hard to make out in the distance as with heat comes flat light, however we were passing olive groves now. The road undulated gently along passing the small Holy Monastery of St. Gjerg on the right which unfortunately had no access.
The road dropped and we were into the second and hardest climb of the day. Electric bikes whizzed by as we were caught by the second group leaving behind us. We topped out at Nivicë to drop briefly, then back up to Pallatet where a cold drink was on offer in the bar.
The next section involved a long downhill to the coast. The main road had moved inland. Whilst everyone else took the main road, I tested a track that ran down to the coast at Qazim Pali. It was somewhat rough and stoney but gave good views along a coast filled with tidy lines of umbrellas. Reaching the coast, it was along the promenade with umbrellas on the left marking out the hotels territory, olive trees to the right and speedbumps made of rope. A final cheeky uphill then descent took us to lunch overlooking the sea far below. Fish paellas and mussels, the latter being one of the few things exported during communist times.
The tours I do are also about the sites. Even the guide in his introductions now looks at me and says ‘what site are we looking at today? So perfectly placed7km from the end lay Porto Palermo Castle. Built from 1804 with the help of the French, it’s a triangular fort with walls 3.5 metres thick. The ground floor was divided into various unfurnished rooms. The top floor via a flight of stairs led to the outside, basically a flat roof surrounded by parapets. For 300 lec you could explore the place with the added advantage that it was cool.
Back in the heat of the day it was a final climb over the ridge to the seaside resort of Himare. Our hotel lay by the beach in a strip on the right and more woven straw umbrellas on the left.
We chilled in the hotel before a walk to the touristy area round the headland to book a boat trip for the rest day.
Day 10 Himare to Viore
Potentially this was the hardest day with a series of climbs ahead. Leaving early due to the unseasonably high temperatures, we headed through the seaside town passing the beach along which we had walked the night before. Soon after the road started to rise, and we were to climb to the old part of town with its small church and castle on the hill.
Further climbing which was quite steep for a morning bite to the panorama hotel with great views of the coast below.
Through Dhermi with its blue clock tower and to the base of the biggest and longest climb of the holiday. Unfortunately, there was a honey stall at the base, so why not carry a kilo of honey up the climb? Before this was a yellow pill box which provided a photo opportunity.
The climb was over 1000metres but was steady as it wound its way upwards. All you could do was to select a low gear and peddle your way to the top. Looking back and left provided the best views and the summit was a celebrated with the usual picture. The descent was marked by more cafes and restaurants and our last lunch was a lovely affair of salads.
Continuing the descent took us onto a new road that shows the progression that Albania has made in the past 30 years. We finished in a seaside resort.
Personally, I’d thought about coming to Albania 40 years ago, but it was as distant as North Korea is today. What I discovered was a beautiful country, full of friendly people and great food.