Sri Lanka North to South 2022

Here's the daily diary of the trip and for this I have written about the cycling days. The days correspond to the pictures, so just click on the day for the pictures to accompagny the text. On day 1 we explored Colombo, on day 2 we we transported by bus to Jaffna.

Day 3 - Jaffna to Port Pedro and back

We set out from Jaffna, destination the most Northerly point. The area is flat so the riding was straightforward as we negotiated our way through the northern suberbs past a pretty impressive yellow temple. Into the countryside with narrow roads that provided easy cycling as we felt our way through the heat of the morning.  This is a low lying area and so we found out near the coast where the road had been flooded by the sea. Finally though the road curved to the right and we were cycling the coast road. In most countries so close to a major city this would have been prime second home territory, but not here. The way was marked by a rough road with small buildings either side used by the fisherman who were omnipresent, their colourful boats pulled up to the shore.  

 There was though one hotel and the Village Hotel were only too happy to let 11 cyclists in for coffee taken over the waters edge. A few of us took a dip in the sea from their very small private beach which added to the charm.  Back on the road we headed for, and passed the Northerly point, with everyone heading for the lighthouse which marked itself a the Northerly point, as did another area opposite the army base where a small shop sold roti’s and tea to the soldiers at cheaper prices. Rounding everyone up, we proceeded to the obligatory photo stop at the ‘official’ point to start our journey south. We’d come the quieter way, with a more major road paralled this on the way back. It was along this that we powered back to the hotel. In the evening having had a disaster of a meal the night before (basically no food was served), we visited Mango for a vegetarian feast in a simple but lovely restaurant. After a lovely meal with so many tuk tuks in the daytime, only one was available, so a group of us walked back to the hotel to get ready for the long rides over the next 3 days.

Day 4 - Jaffan to Mannar

Breakfast was supposed to start at 0630 but not at this hotel. 0715 and folks started to tuck in to the buffet breakfast, an omelette chef stationed beehind a burner, and toast. Fleur had left early as she would do for the rest of the trip, so we assembled at 0800 for the off. At Robin’s request we headed for the enormous estuary which was definitely a good call as it was very pretty over the water. Onto the busy main road which had a good shoulder, to turn right along the A2 to head south. The traffic quietened and we passed paddy fields left and right. Curious motorcyclists passed us, offering me bedding, honey and finally ‘something nice to smoke’
To carry on down the western side we had to cross the sea and that’s where Sangupiddi Bridge came in, as a long causeway led to it, providing one of the high points in the day. A reminder of Sri Lankas past lay to the left with a warning of unexploded land mines from the conflict with the Tamils as this was their stronghold.
Our first stop was at Poonerwyn, a small strung out village where a ruined fort stood next to the road. Built by the Portuguese it was turned into a restaurant by the British and today only 4 walls remain.
The rest of the day was pretty non-descript as we clocked of the kilometers towards our destination at Mannar. The very last part along a concrete road for the last 20km was particularly tough as we juddered along. Once it turned towards Mannar we had 4km left and by that time, for me at least the 120km day was starting to tell.
Entering Mannar past the army check point of which there are loads in this area, it was through the town to our hotel for the night where I chewed salt to avoid cramp, drank a bottle of coke and Robin enjoyed the notoriety as yes, the restaurant was named after him. Our evening meal was a simple affair, lots of fried rice, but 12 portions even after a long day in the saddle defeated us.

Day 5 - Manner to Anuradhapura

On trips, I normally wouldn’t arrange 75 mile days, yet alone 3 in a row, but we were in rural Sri Lanka. It also occurred to me that we were cycling in 2 days what we had driven in an afternoon and on that day we hadn’t done a dog leg, going straight adding to the feat that we were about to complete.
We left Mannar the way we had come in and struck out heading southeast. A pattern had developed in the group, there were those that liked to set a faster pace, so this terrain was ideal for them to pull away. For others we pottered along looking about at things to look at.
After 20km I found mine. To the left was a huge bank and a café below. Looking at the map there was a water feature so it was worth a look. Above us was Giants Tank, an enormous reservoir built by the Kings, centuries ago. A haven for wildlife, it was very pretty as the cormorants roosted on a branch near the shore. I was also very hot and this tank fed the canal system. These canals aren’t just waterways they are used for washing, cleaning and yes swimming. Enjoying the cool were 4 lorry drivers, so I chose to join them. No need to undress, in this heat any moisture goes in 10 miles. It was wonderful, highly recommended and as I cycled away dripping, I made good time. The railway joined us and I reckon I was catching the rest, so after another 8km I reached up for my sunglasses which sit on my head, but they weren’t there. Yup I’d left them at the canal, back we go then and yes there they were lying in the dirt. The back up bus had come back to check with Karen aboard to which I waved them on and continued to chase
A roti and coke at an army café slowed me up, as did picturing a quite surreal creation outside the military academy for engineers. I was further slowed by a slow puncture but the Nestea and ginger cake at another Army café helped mitigate the disappointment.
The section following was quiet, rural and pretty. By the side of the road, two small children were selling things in blue polythene bags. On stopping their father arrived and with no common language I tried green oranges and 2 types of fruit to which I still have no idea, but still filled a pannier with them.
I’d expected to be well behind, but heading down the main road to Anuradhapura came upon Sharon and Mike. They’d been on a magical mystery tour of the area and Mike had now punctured. His plight had been noticed by a passing motorcyclist whom for half an hour attentively checked the tube and tyre, fixed the tube and even pumped it up, under the watchful eye of his son who held the bike. They were so polite, the son even refusing to eat an ice cream I bought for him, popping it in his bag for later!
It was getting late and Anuradhapura was approaching. Missing a turn, the three of us headed for the centre, the straight through approach. That turned out to be a grand choice as others had met the ‘give us $25’ brigade to cycle through the UNESCO listed old part, whilst we had the beautiful sight of bathers in a lake with Jetavanaramaya Stupa behind.
Once through the old part the traffic markedly increased, and the last 8km to the Black and White hotel was really quite busy.
Our hotel for the night was a delightful place. The owner had an expensive bike and was genuinely enthused with what we were doing. This extended to the evening meal which was our best yet with locally sourced breads and an excellent selection of curries.

Day 6 - Anuradhapura to Sigyria

Another breakfast feast, shame we couldn’t stay longer as we bade farewell and headed back to Anuradhapura along the busyness that was the A12. Like a switch the traffic turned off as we headed through the old town, heading back to the main road when we were asked for $25 for 100 metres of cycling through another part of this UNESCO site.
The ‘ring road was busy and so was the A28 to Telawa where the back up bus plied us with drinks and fruit.
Now in Europe, roadworks are done a bit at a time, a few miles if you are unlucky. In Sri Lanka the whole road is worked on and that can mean 50km which was the case today. Teams of workers firstly strengthened the water culverts then built bridges, then ripped up the road then retarmacced it, often widening it at the same time. I expect it will be beautiful next year but the B213 was one long vibration fest
Passing through Eppewala we continued south west before heading past Kalawewa National Park. Constructed by King Datusena in the 5th century we rode the embankment with a drop to the right and a slope to the enormous lake on the left. We lunched here before continuing onwards.
The final part took us back along the canal networks to finish at Cloudz Hotel with a pool and a group of small villas with a bathroom outside the walls of the bedroom.

Day 7 – Sigirya to Gititale

I've been here twice before but nothing can really prepare you for quite how interesting this place is. Built over 7 years and lived in for a further 9 it's essentially a palace atop an enormous rock previously lived in by Buddhists monks. Around the edge are deep defences including a moat with crocodiles, ditches and walls. There's even a massive rock still in place chisseled out, that can be levered onto the enemy.
As you approach, ornate gardens and ponds greet you, all restored on the right with the left side still buried in the centuries old soil.
We'd hired a local guide. With COVID, times had been tough. 3 tours a day were now 2 a week, so the 150 guides took turns. The approach was by steps but these were closed today so we took a trail to the great lions feet for the staircase to the top to admire the view and the ruins of the palace. Descending took us past the mirror wall and 9 frescoes of ladies, all that remained of the hundreds that the monks had removed once they had reclaimed the site. One new rule here, no photography, clearly treasured.
Morning visit over we returned to the hotel for the bikes to retrace our steps past the fortress on the jungle road. Heading right we were on the much busier A11 taking us past Minneriya National Park where Karen and Robin had decided to go elephant spotting. For 4 of us on bikes though, the elephants came to us as first a mother and calf tried to cross the road and then a bull elephant decided that yes indeed the grass was greener on the verge. In both cases we sat a respectful distance away waiting. In the second after 30 minutes a motorist took pity on us, using his car as a shield from Mr Elephant to let us get past.
Our one accident happened shortly afterwards. A worried lady stopped in her car telling us that someone had fallen. We'd already noticed that Martin was missing and were pleased when he pedalled towards us, though having left quite a lot of skin on the tarmac. It turned out that a brake bolt had fallen and so had he. We were left to shepherd him to the hotel where Lorna shovelled sweetened tea down for shock, I plied him with chocolate cake and we borrowed the hand soap for COVID to wash him down (well Martin did that)
The others returned having been to Dambulla caves and we all watched the sunset from the terrace with cups of tea. The day finished with the hotel buffet, quite a Western affair.

Day 8 was a rest day in Giritale

Day 9 – Giritale to Mahiyangana

Breakfast at 0630 and we were away for 0750. Down the steep slope from the Giritale Hotel to head left along the lake. it was Sunday and early so the traffic was light. A couple of young Sri Lankan racers shrieked with delight as they passed me, not knowing that ahead the fast bunch would be more of a challenge, and so it was but with single speed, curved handlebars and wire brakes they were doing well.
The first section was lovely, a river to the right with Elephant fencing and paddy fields to the left. Pretty flat we made good time to Bakamuna where we had snacks by the river whilst Shameera beat the monkeys away who were ganging up in the trees. Good job Robin had a cycling helmet on as a rock thrown by Shameera missed its target and all things bow to gravity.
At 50km the terrain started to change as you could see the hills all around us to left, right and centre. There was a climb today and as it approached it was tough to see where it would be. What it was, was a turn to the left then a final part so was so steep even a motorbike behind spluttered to a stop. Mercifully short, we descended to the lunch stop at Sanjula Hotel. The bus was in the car park, rotis and fruit were on offer and the fast gang had left
The last section was one of the loveliest I have ever ridden. Flat with a wide meandering canal on the right full of water lilies. The backdrop were the mountains. On the left the intense green of the paddy fields were as delightful. People were washing their clothes and swimming in the canals so we searched out some steps to join them. The water was cool but you needed to be careful as the water was fast flowing
12km from the end we stopped for ice cream. At 25 pence each, tough to refuse and we chatted to the family with 3 daughters aged 16, 12 and 9, the eldest spoke good English which isn't that common
In Hasalaka turning left by the soldier statue the road got busier and we arrived at Tikiri Villa by the canal, surrounded by paddy fields and with squabbling monkeys on the roof.

Day 10 - Mahiyangana to Ella

Breakfast was all laid out at 0700, so we tucked into the usual suspects, papaya in thick slices, water melon, eggs and sausage and mounds of toast. In the past 5 years I have noticed people taking as many pictures of us than we do of them and the manager here was snapping us all at breakfast and afterwards asking for a line up before we set off.

Out of the villa to head right along a delightful minor road, full of local comings and goings, wildlife and potholes. As we jangled about on the road, Robin and Linda stopped by the canal to check out a zillion bird species and by the time we reached the difficult turn off we were very split as a group.  Just before the bridge the left turn was seen by all but 3. For us made a little easier by Robin saying something and a bus appearing out of the junction. It descended to cross the Mahaweli Ganga on a concrete causeway where we saw an amazing site. Squadrons of cormorants in 7 waves flew above us in a large V formation, there must have been over 1000, presumably using the river as a guide. 

Onto the B492 which was wider and busier. Passing Fleur, all seemed well. She’d been on the road for 2 and a half hours, using no power on her electric Brompton and wasn’t sure if Karen had passed her. At this point the road started to climb and just before Meegahakiula the van had pulled in and indeed, 3 had missed the turn. Phones rang and the story evolved that the road was a dead end entering the dam. An employee had guided them back to the B road and they were well behind us, so bus dispatched to pick up first Fleur and then Karen, Sharon and Mike. Sharon commented later that her first rule was to always know where I was. Robin had waited but on hearing that Karen was OK, set of to catch the others leaving me in his wake. 

The climb continued followed by a drop and it was at this point that Karen and Sharon joined to tackle the second climb with 24km to go to Badulla. It turned into a tough climb, steep gradient and zig zagging up the mountain side with good views down and back.  It was pretty clear now that the others would be long ahead, so finding a shop/café on a scenic bend we popped in for an ice cream that turned into a drink, that turned into sampling all the curries to filling in a visitor’s book and great fun was had by all. We topped the climb on the edge of Badulla. Robin bless him had waited 2 hours having caught and left the others, talking to a civil servant who wanted to meet his wife. We celebrated with an ice cream before descending fast into the busy town of Badulla to begin the climb to Ella, this time a little gentler as it went in fits of climbs and flats. It was quite a busy road and it was a relief to head left towards Ella (but not before another ice cream) but even this reared up as we passed the Tea Plantations.

Through Ella which was quite a culture shock, a sea of white faces, yes this was tourist ville and it was a relief to pass through ending up at the superb Tea Forest Lodge at the edge of town, a 6 bedroomed guest house with a lovely owner serving an evening meal of curries full of flavour. Coconut, fish, aubergine, beetroot to name a few.

Day 11 - Ella to Nuwara Eliya

We set of at 0530 to walk to Little Adams Peak to see the sunrise. The way was lit by torches as we headed through the grounds of the 98 acre resort. Along the trail and up the peak aided by having concrete steps for 2/3 of the way. Top reached, the sunrise failed to excite but the views and small golden Buddha made the climb a worthwhile one.
The Tea Forest Lodge continued to please as we tucked into a delicious breakfast on the deck outside. Loaded up we descended to the 9 Arches bridge close to the Lodge where the 0920 train was due to cross the railway bridge conceived in 1921. Lots of people took position, from us overlooking the bridge, to people actually walking along the trackbed. Sure enough it arrived snaking its way across the curved bridge heading for the station, an iconic sight.
We all pushed the bikes back to the road aside Karen who decided that she could indeed get herself and the bike into a tuk tuk along a narrow track. The memory of her waving like royalty as it buzzed up the track will live long in the memory.
Back to the start it was through Ella, silent as this is an evening town to head left up a wicked zig zag climb through the tea plantations. The road traversed the hillside, again with lovely views to the left and an assortment of places to stay, illustrating what a tourist honey pot this place was.
I caught Robin and Karen at the short cut through to Banderawela entering the busy town, regathering at a café overlooking the fields on the outskirts of town. It was at this point that the allotment variation came to light. One of the instructions had been tough to follow and I’d missed it but as Steve said ‘we’re slaves to the garmin’. To avoid a section of main road the route had taken a side road. Now these usually work, but in this case it led to a series of allotments, a number of frightened bits of wildlife and a bemused farmer. Linda had well and truly got into the spirit by exploring a muddy ditch with her bike, well it wouldn’t be a bike tour without a bit of an adventure would it?
Shortly after the lunch stop, we found the back-up bus and loaded up with yoghurt and fruit for the big climb to Nuwari Eliya. We all set of in our usual order, the 3 racing snakes at the front followed by Linda who was well into the spirit of this trip now. Close to the back I saw my chance, a slow lorry labouring its way uphill, too good a chance to miss. Many years of practice in India and my right arm caught the tailgate. 10km later I was at the front having majestically passed the rest. Of course, it was purely for photographic reasons as I snapped those passing me again. The climb continued passing the Botanical Gardens and 10km out I stopped, bought an ice cream and waited for the ladies.
One final push into Nuwari Eliya which broke my chain with all the effort ,and we were aside the shores of the lake close to the finish. Lorna on her rambling was there to greet us a few hundred metres out and we finished at Lu Chalet where we would spend the next 3 nights to explore Horton Plains and rest a day.

Day 12 and 13 were rest days 

Day 14 - Nuwara Eliya to Hapatule

The chef had put on his outfit as we said farewell to Lu Chalet. Another group photo for the staff and we were away along the minor roads of the lake. I was surprised at just how little the area was developed figuring that this would be prime real estate especially as the lake was a playground for the rich taking in the cool of this hill station.
We were slated to descend the way we had climbed 3 days ago, so it promised to be a fast descent along the switchbacks to Keppetipola. A chance for some to check out the temples overlooking the glorious views, for others an opportunity to enjoy the descent
Diesel gate had continued, the back up bus had tried for 3 days to obtain fuel, and was now in Keppetipola parked up in an enormous queue, so it seemed appropriate to see how they were doing and collect any spares that we needed. Freshly cut hair and trimmed beards suggested that things were OK and so I loaded up a few spare inner tubes and a tyre as we would be on our own now.
The valley road next was beautiful as it wound its way around the long valley filled with agricultural working, there was even a temple to offset the many shades of green.
Robin had picked up a puncture, we seemed to be getting a few of these on this trip. As usual this caused attention, as a red tuk tuk to pull to a halt, watching us do the necessary, talking to themselves and finishing by asking us if we’d like to buy something to smoke.
We caught the others in the next town where they’d found a bakery but nowhere to sit. For me part of the fun is a café stop, so a closer stop revealed a seating area inside. Six of us entered which caused great excitement as tables were pulled together and a plate of delicacies produced. The way it’s done is a plate is loaded with goodies and you pay for what you eat. I ‘risked’ the salad sandwich and yes Steve the spaceship cakes were pretty good. Washed down with chai it would have been perfect aside the nasty smell of drains in this place, but heh you can’t have everything.
It was planting season and all the fields seemed to be filled with people ploughing and planting. I hadn’t seen this in years but in the distance an ox and plough was in use whilst ladies planted the green shoots of rice in its path.
Fleur had gamely made it this far. For a 70 year old lady it was a remarkable trip for her, so in Borolanda she negotiated a tuk tuk for $5 to take her the final 14km to Hapatule. 4 of us left behind quaffed an ice cream and decided that we’d do the side trip, after all we had time. A tuk tuk driver tried to tell me the road was closed (they do a lot of this) and as we plunged down then climbed steeply I wondered if it was a good idea. However, as the narrow road rose and fell with birds everywhere it seemed a good idea. Our destination was Diyathalawa. A centre for the army, we watched as trainee troops marched about and just made it into a bakery before the heavens opened for quite some rainstorm. The bakery manager had allowed our bikes in, so we were dry when we did the southern section through the tea plantations admiring the brooding clouds around Hapatule in the distance.
Back at the B road we headed first left for what was the loveliest climb of the trip. A perfect grade took us gradually upwards. The main road took all the traffic so we were left in peace to admire the view to the left and the tea plantations. It was only in the last few kilometres that the road kicked upwards to deliver us in Hapatule. To Sharon’s delight we crossed a railway track and cycled through the bustle of this small town made busier by another fuel queue.
We ended at Sri Lak View, my third visit and a hotel with a view but not today.

Day 15 - Hapatule to Udawalawe

As Linda sat on the balcony, the cracking view had failed to materialise as the cloud rolled over the escarpment at Sri Lak View. Overnight the bus had managed to get enough diesel to get the luggage to the South Coast, so for now everything was back on track.
Breakfast in the airy dining room of eggs, toast and fruit fuelled us up as we prepared to leave the mountains and return to the heat of the lower levels.
It was a fast start today with over 20km of downhill to look forward too. The extensive views of the south, viewpoints and monkeys sped past as we freewheeled ever downwards.
The group settled into its usual order as Robin and Martin hurtled to the bottom, but for once Steve seemed to be taking his time.
A puncture left me well behind the pack, not helped by finding a piece of metal embedded in the tyre the next day. It did though cause great interest to the crowd that gathered as I fixed it. Needing a new inner tube a local bikeshop appeared. Like hens teeth these are pretty rare. A line of polythene wrapped gleaming bikes greeted me but did they have a tube? nope.
I thought I’d not see anyone until the evening but as I rounded the corner there was the bus and a delighted Sharon who unloaded her bike knowing that now she had someone to show her the way, with which we proceeded onwards to stop shortly for an ice cream at a local shop where the lady in charge spoke great English, tried to offer us a free drink from her fridge and gave us a tour of the vegetables she had on display.
The final two sections of the day were quite different. The first a very pretty road that finished our descent from the mountains. It was one of those roads that was being worked on throughout as teams of engineers were widening bridges and digging culverts. The second section was flat, fast and quite busy as we headed to our destination at Uda Walawe.
Our arrival was greeted by the others who were reclining by the pool, so it would have been rude not to jump in, 30 minutes later it was all aboard for a jeep safari around Udawalawe National Park in search of elephants, crocodiles and more bird life. It started to rain just as we found the first herd and they glistened in the wet. At foot was a 10 day old calf, quite a lovely sight.

Day 16 - Udawalawe to Dundra Head

We’d decided not to visit the Elephant orphanage as this was an 0900 start and with the heat we wanted to be away, so at 0830 we passed the guard on the gate to take on the canals to the south of Udawalawe.
The canals were built from the 5th century and provide a haven for wildlife and people as well as providing some of the best cycling in Sri Lanka.
We picked up the left bank, sharing it with pedestrians, motorcycles and the odd tuk tuk. For wildlife spotters on a bicycle these are fantastic where Kingfishers, Herons and Eagles are easily seen, so travel is both rewarding and takes longer than expected.
We stuck with the canal as long as possible before arriving at the outskirts of Embilipitiya. It was a different experience as the world and his wife thundered past us on all manner of transport. A right turn along a quieter street gave a brief respite until it was right again along a dual carriageway that was the main artery out of the town to the south west. On the outskirts the bus was waiting. Home-made electrolyte drink and bananas fuelled us on our way to a flatter and quieter section. Now as a group we had agreed to broadly stick together so Sharon and I had to seek out mobile entertainment. What better then, than a mobile ice cream seller on a bicycle honking his horn? In the depths of his cool box on the back rack lay two ice cold tubs of vanilla and chocolate ice cream. Liberally placed on a cornet for 100 rupees, we got an ice cream and he got a good pay day, so we both won.
To our left a crowd had gathered to watch the cricket. In a rough field the rule seemed to be to hit the ball as far as possible to the delight of everyone involved.
The group had separated a bit now and I knew that lunch was close, but what’s this? An enormous Buddha with a line of lifesized statues playing homage, bound to be worth a quick look? So, in we popped, but as with lots of things, Muruthawela temple kind of evolved. First the children came out, one with a remote controlled car, then the chief and finally the English teacher. It turned out that the chief had been there 40 years. His charges were children from the poorer families and the English teacher spoke very good English. It turned out that the other features were Buddha on a 6 year fast and we were shown behind closed doors an enormous reclining Buddha. Naturally this made us late for lunch of yoghurt and fruit cake, so this was swallowed at speed as we cycled the last section as a group before stopping for a final ice cream at Thalpawila. Here a lady quietly said 'I have ice cream' to see her freezer emptied.
We’d agreed to meet 5km from the end, so the final gathering took place and Fleur joined us for the final part with 25% battery left. Trouble was this dissipated on the last hill, so we all waited for her to lead us to our final destination, Dundra Point.
With a smile a lot of us dipped into the sea and had various pictures taken thinking the job was done until Karen pointed out that she had found an official sign and so we had to do it all over again.
So, there we have it North to South. To finish we somehow managed to get all the bikes, luggage and people into the bus, find some diesel and stay 2 nights close to the beach to finish the holiday. It's a fabulous place, perfect for a February holiday.